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The Evac Jak, Experimental Camouflage, “Saigon Cowboy” mfsc Spring 2015

Mister Freedom Saigon Cowboy Spring 2015

 

 

去年11月看完2015春夏新品發表會回來之後,我一直不斷囉唆覺得很讚的、等不及的

就是這一款迷彩上衣,以1970年代作為時空背景、兩種不同配色的迷彩印花在耐操耐磨的人字紋棉布上

待穿用久了之後更會有另外一番風味

Mister Freedom Saigon Cowboy Spring 2015

Mister Freedom Saigon Cowboy Spring 2015Mister Freedom Saigon Cowboy Spring 2015

Mister Freedom Saigon Cowboy Spring 2015

 

 

 

Experimental Camouflage
Mister Freedom® “Saigon Cowboy” Spring 2015

After an Homeric attempt at an introduction of both our intentions and the background of our Spring 2015 “Saigon Cowboy” concept collection, here comes the time to actually unleash its first chapter. Straight off the steamy jungles where the panthera tigris, majestic beast of the night, roamed free. Until…
…whomp-whomp-whomp-WHOMP-WHOMP-WHOMP…
(skies fill with green UH-1s above the canopy, “Ride Of The Valkyries” plays)

It’s shoooow tiiiime… sit back and cringe.

It is a documented ancient tradition for warriors to adorn themselves with the furry hides of ferocious hunted creatures, in order to appropriate and hog specific powers from the animal kingdom.
This practice seems to have extended to modern warriors by way of printed cloth known as camo. From the leopard-print cowboy hats of some US advisors in Vietnam to the flashy cheetah-print fatigues of the General Mobutu’s Armed Forces of Zaire in the 1970’s, it can be said that there is no end to human creativity in the concealment business.
To quote the New York Times in a 1917 camouflage-related piece, “It is a wonderful opportunity, this game of hokus-pokus“.
Nothing spells human ingenuity like painted zebra stripes on a donkey or battleship to fool the enemy.

 

 

For the past 100 years or so, commercial or military camouflage has continued to appear in all kinds of shapes, colors, forms, at various levels of justification. See the “Disruptive Pattern Material” brick (ISBN-13: 978-1554070114) for a potential camo coma.

In the printed camouflage family, the military ‘Experimental’ group is of particular interest to me. It features patterns painstakingly designed by boards of experts that never made it to standard issue status, from either lack of interest, failure of the field tests, budget issues, fluctuations in theater of deployment according to where the evil enemy of the month hides, etc…
Specimens of obscure patterns are sporadically unearthed and sometimes shared by collectors, such as this handsome “MacLaren” for instance. Some patterns are only known to be in existence from a brief feature on an official publication or rare field test photo set. Whether one-of-a-kind individually hand-painted for a specific mission, or produced in small batch/tested in combat/pulled as inconclusive, there’s gotta be some interesting stories about these experimental camouflage pattern in the Fort Belvoir archives (US military’s headquarters for camouflage R&D in Virginia), or the Natick Labs file cabinets…

 

 

In an effort by the Clothing Division of the Office of the Military Planning Division to financially recover part of the cost of R&D, it is plausible to imagine that rolls of obsolete experimental camouflage fabric ended up being sold to jobbers or Army/Navy surplus stores, eventually cut & sewn into tarps, hunting clothes and civvy fatigues. Obscure sample runs and seconds from the stock pile of a fabric-printing mil-specs contractor could also surface out of nowhere after liquidation…

For the Mister Freedom® Spring 2015 “Saigon Cowboy” collection, I thought of temporarily playing camoufleur. But how does one ‘invent’ a camouflage? Relieved of the overwhelming pressure of having to save lives, I was still shooting for something that would look more legit than foofoo. Besides the early realization that most assignments are better left to professionals, off we were on our merry way to come up with the first ever ‘original’ MF® ‘flage! Oh boy…

As most camouflage patterns are an interpretation of a predecessor (the 1980’s Woodland is an evolution of the 1960’s ERDL leaf pattern), I felt less shame borrowing the famous amoeba shapes of the P1942 “Frog Skin” we had used for the Map Shirt of our Sea Huntdays . We opted for the same sturdy 100% cotton HBT white base fabric however, the same painstaking rotary-print technique (not computer printed or over-dyed), and the same concept of a reversible fabric.
The fun part was selecting the colors… and determining where exactly the MacLaren-inspired sparse lime green amoebas looked best.
After going back for weeeeeks to the drafting table, with color swatches and unsatisfying protos, going bananas and obsessing about visual contrasts & blends, face & reverse, we managed to settle on ONE pattern, in several options.
If our approach is an obvious nod to the Beach & Jungle sides of 40’s USMC reversible Frog Skin gear, the MF® Exp. camo combines camouflage with a simple solid side. The solid side cachou color is a reference to the caramel-like color typical of 1930’s French military canvas gear. Please note that if our fabric is technically reversible, the resulting garments are not.

For confusion sake, and to make sure everyone feels as in-the-fog as we do, here is a list of MF® Experimental ‘flage options available this season (please note that, depending on distribution in a specific Country, not all options are available). The face/reverse options are:
A) LoLand out (jungle, darker)/cachou in.
B) HiLand out (arid terrain, lighter)/cachou in.
C) Cachou out/HiLand in.

Wearing an early proto jacket of the MF® LoLand camo the other day at the Rosebowl flea market, it was quite satisfying to be asked by a puzzled seasoned militaria collector “What Country is that?”… Made my day.

The MF® Exp. camo is featured on two pieces of our “Saigon Cowboy” Spring 2015 collection.
* The Evac Jak.
* The Utes.

 

MF® Experimental Camouflage Spring 2015

MF® Experimental Camouflage Spring 2015

 

 

First to hit the LZ this season is the “Evac Jak”, a snap closure cotton jacket.

For the inclined, a bit of approximative History and semantics follows. Read or fast-forward, but as always make sure not to quote me on anything that requires exactitude…

The name we picked is a reference to MEDEVAC, the call sign for helicopter ambulance and crew in charge of medical evacuation during the Vietnam conflict. For the 1st CAV who forged its own, a MEDEVAC crew consisted of an Aircraft Commander, Co-Pilot, Crew Chief, Door Gunner and a Medic. Defying the odds of survival by most likely landing in a hot zone, these men gave their lives to save others’. Statistics have it that, among the ranks of American soldiers fighting in Vietnam, “nearly 98% of those wounded in action were evacuated from the battlefield alive.
That courage qualified the dustoff crews as a trooper’s best friend on the battlefield. For the wounded soldier, the sound of that Huey coming to the rescue was sweet & sour music, the sight of that flying Red Cross meant a ticket back ‘in the world’.
In a war that dragged over a decade, in-the-field gallantry could only be sustained by the relative reassurance of knowing someone was coming to lift you out of the muck on time. Countless accounts of courage and sacrifices from those MEDEVAC and DUSTOFFcrews have been published.
Similarly, the NVA (=the communist North Vietnamese Army, China’s protégé opposing the South Vietnamese Army, aka ARVN, America’s protégé… just look it up) went through great length to carry their fallen away from the battlefield for proper burial ceremonies. Faced with fighting the most powerful Nation on Earth, NVA and VC troops needed the guarantee of a better afterlife to accomplish the impossible…

 

 

Back to our fiction…
Because a specific helo pilot-issued jacket didn’t seem to happen during the Vietnam conflict, we decided to come up with one. The style of our “Saigon Cowboy” Evac Jak is inspired by 1960’s US Air Force flight suits, 1950’s French army field jackets and Vietnam era flyboy gear, with an in country-made flair. Pilots and flight crews occasionally had custom local-made gear to replace the standard Gov’t issued garb, as period photography hints. Camouflage appealed to some airmen, should they themselves get to experience waiting for a dustoff… The one-piece flight suit also proved unpractical and some pilots, fixed wing or rotary, opted for the jacket (shirt)/pants combo.

To accentuate the local-made meets custom Saigon tailor ‘vibe’, we have ink-stamped sizing in a manner reminiscent of CISO-supplied military garments. The “US” stood for sizing following American standards, as opposed to the “A” stamp differentiating  Asian standards garments. See the book “Tiger Patterns” (ISBN-10: 0764307568) for more on that.

For the anecdote-oriented few, the idea behind our MF® “mfsc Tailleur” woven label being somewhat concealed on this jacket (bottom of the inside front panel, and not in its expected back yoke position), is to highlight the contrast between name-branding and the signature of a local tailor. Oddly enough, in the past, legit tailors tended to sign their works in a conspicuous spot. Famous Brands today do it on the outside, with voluminous logos.

The Evac Jak is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS

FABRIC:
Somewhat original Mister Freedom® camo pattern, double-side rotary screen printed (one side solid, one side camo), white 100% cotton Herringbone Twill (HBT) fabric base.
Fabric milled and printed in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Inspired by vintage USAF flight suits and French military field jackets.
* Un-lined, no overlock seams.
* ‘Bat sleeves’ arm pattern.
* Flight suit typical slanted chest pockets with mil-specs replica 1950’s US Air Force metal “CROWN” zippers.
* Large lower cargo-type pocket.
* Concealed snap front closure.
* Arm pen pockets.
* Wrist snap cinch tabs.
* Round collar with removable chin-strap
* Underarm mesh screen eyelets.
* Intricate front/rear shoulder yoke.
* Flat felled seam construction, 100% cotton thread.
* Non-reversible.
* Made in Japan.

SIZINF/FIT
This garment comes raw/unwashed and will shrink to tagged size after an original cold soak/line dry. Further shrinkage to be expected with the use of hot water and heat dryer.
All MF® Exp. Camo fabric options will shrink the same.
If you are a Medium (38) in mfsc jackets, you are a Medium in the Evac Jak.
Please refer to sizing chart for measurements.

CHART

CARE:
Launder when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails.
Machine wash. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. We recommend turning garments inside out to avoid marbling of the fabric when washing.
Because the base HBT fabric is white before being printed, toning down of colors will naturally occur. This fading should not be considered a quest nor a defect, only the natural consequence of the wash/wear process over the years.

Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

RETAIL $429.95

 

The “WORKMAN” shirt, indigo pincheck & HBT denim. Made in USA, Sportsman Spring 2015 catalog.

Workman Shirt Mister Freedom Spring 2015

 

Workman Shirt Mister Freedom Spring 2015

Workman indigo pincheck

 

 

Workman Shirt Mister Freedom Spring 2015

 

Workman Shirt Mister Freedom Spring 2015

A slightly worn “Workman” next to a one-rinse specimen.

 

 

 

Workman Shirt Mister Freedom Spring 2015

Workman HBT denim

 

 

Workman Shirt Mister Freedom Spring 2015

 

 

The “Workman” shirt, HBT denim and indigo Pincheck
‘Sportsman’ catalog, Spring 2015

A new addition to the Sportsman catalog this Spring 2015 is the “Workman” shirt. As the name we opted for implies, nothing to revolutionize the design world. We muted the bells and whistles on this one, wanting a simple, clean cut 40’s style work shirt, made in USA.

(insert uplifting photos of thrilled workers in enviable FSA fashion here)

 

Skyline Farms, Alabama (Photo Ben Shahn, 1936) courtesy of www.AlabamaPioneers.com

Skyline Farms, Alabama, 1936 (Photo Ben Shahn for the FSA)

 

To inaugurate the new pattern of the “Workman”, we broke out two very different fabrics from our vault. They only have in common the fact that they look alike if you dress in the dark.
Option A is a slubby dark indigo pincheck (“a strong cotton cloth having a vertical and horizontal design of white dots on a blue ground, used in the manufacture of work clothes“) cotton fabric.
Option B is more of a ‘mill mutt’, if you will. It could be summed up as a dark pinstripe herringbone twill 2×1 denim with an initial raw fabric sheen. The HBT pattern is more clearly visible on the inside of the fabric. The pinstripes on the face are very subtle.
Although blackish/grayish-looking when raw, these fabrics will fade to blue, as shown in the photos featuring rinsed or lightly worn shirt specimens.

Both textiles are “vintage New Old Stock”, as we all call close-out fabrics today. It is safe to say that these do not predate the invention of the steam engine. Found un-documented in a Los Angeles warehouse, these rolls are admittedly of unknown origin. That’s unless you allow the swearing-to-God broker to tell you aaaaaall about them… However, after investing in several cases of snake oil over the years, one learns that garment district sales skits are best taken with large spoonfuls of salt.

The novelty about the Mister Freedom® “Workman” shirt is that it comes… brace yourselves… sans chin strap! It does feature vintage classic favorites such as side gussets, chainstitch construction, double-stitch collar, matching pockets (yes, we can!), corozo cat-eye buttons, etc…

Our Sportsman “Workman” shirt is designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by classic 1940’s workwear shirting.

FABRIC:
A) Indigo Pincheck: 100% cotton pincheck design woven fabric, dark indigo color, about 8 Oz. in weight.
B) HBT stripe denim: 100% cotton herringbone twill denim, subtle vertical stripe design, dark indigo color, about 8 Oz.

DETAILS:
* Special no chin strap edition!
* Black corozo wood cat-eye buttons. These are not plastic.
* White cotton popeline button placket facing.
* Traditional double chest matching pocketing.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton
* Olive Green popeline side gussets.
* Chainstich construction, “Sportsman” green color on the inside.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
Both option A and B come raw/un-rinsed and will shrink to approximately the same size after a rinse/dry process.
We recommend an initial cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
The “Workman” shirts are true-to-size with a quite attractive fairly trim ‘uniform’ silhouette. If you are generally a Medium in mfsc shirts, you are a Medium in the Workman.
Please refer to sizing chart for measurements.

 

Workman Shirt Mister Freedom Spring 2015

HBT denim

 

 

CARE:
Launder when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails.
Machine wash. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. We recommend turning indigo blue/denim garments inside out to avoid marbling when washing.
The blue color will pop out over time. Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
14½ (Small)
15½ (Medium)
16½ (Large)
17½ (X-Large)
18½ (XX-Large)

RETAIL $279.95

 

The Classic Denim SUGAR CANE 1947 Type II SC42009

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數十年歷史的老牌 SUGAR CANE 最令人記憶深刻的經典款式,當然就是1947系列的常青款
每年都有新品牌新款是推出的丹寧褲市場,眾多哄抬形象與價格企圖拉高自己身價的品牌中
SUGAR CANE 1947系列始終旁若無人的堅挺存在著,回顧過去十年來眾多品牌、款式的出爐
能夠在布料、染色、車縫細節、五金、剪裁、細節、甚至是穿用後色落、耐用程度與舒適性、、、、
能夠望1947之項背的能有幾款?而能並駕齊驅甚至超越的更是寥寥無幾

當我們驚覺這樣經典好款式竟然如此沈穩不張揚的默默存在於市場上更驚人的是
它的售價竟然只要4680台幣

SUGAR CANE 1947 Type II SC42009 完全像是丹寧褲界中的一把尺
宣示著基準線,難以超越

這就是我們真正需要的經典

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The Malibu’s, sea and sand. Sportsman Fall 2015, made in USA.

 

Malibus Mister Freedom Spring 2015Malibus Mister Freedom Spring 2015 Malibus-blues-(2)Malibus Mister Freedom Spring 2015

 

 

The “Malibu’s”, sea and sand denim
The Sportsman mfsc Spring 2015

Before Jeremy Slate rose to fame for sharing knuckle sandwiches with the King over girls, girls, girls sometime in 1962, he had been one of the men of unusual daring in the short-lived 1960 TV show “The Aquanauts“, a “Sea Hunt” spin off. Based on the water adventures of a group of wreck-diving buddies off Honolulu, HI, the show was renamed “Malibu Run” in 1961, as the characters relocated and opened up a diving shop in Malibu, CA . When not fending off villains underwater (Columbo in latex, anyone?), Jeremy Slate’s character often sported these cool off-white cotton trousers (I’ll have to do some screen captures when i find time).
Slim silhouette, flood length, waist tab, no belt loops, à la McQueen.
More generically, white jeans were at the time a common staple in beachside fashion. Whether you surfed or, like the Beach Boys, didn’t, ‘wheat’ jeans were the thing. If you were near sea and sand, you were not too far from white Levi’s®, pique 519’s, sateen Lee’s, or whatever cream stove pipe jeans or Broomstick slacks the 1962 Sears catalog offered…

 

 

We have already tapped in this 1960’s style of pants in our recent past with the piqué Speedways, but figured we could always use another sniff of marine air and add the Malibu’s to the Sportsman catalog. We changed a few things, removed the buckle back and slimmed down the fit a bit. This season also introduces two color options…
For the off-white version (sand), we are using the ‘desert denim’ developed around 2012 for the Gunslinger Denim Jumper and Pantaloons, a very textured, slubby, unbleached yarn ‘eggshell white’ denim, milled in Japan.
For a touch of color, “Flipper” (1963) came to the rescue. We developed an indigo-dyed selvedge denim to match the washed-out indigo blue shade ever present in the old sea-faring metrocolor movies and TV shows. During those ‘happy days’, garment distressing was a DIY thing. When denim was required in a scene and multiples not necessary, actors in character routinely wore their own personal (naturally-aged) jeans on set. For an extra salty look, the studios Wardrobe Depts distressed blue jeans with the help of bleach and pumice stone. Characters in washed out blues blended better with beach scenery.
Today is a much better world due to the achievements of human intelligence applied to what we wear. You can now buy brand new garments with holes and stains straight off the mall shelves! I’ll be doomed if i have to wait 40 years until my clothes fall apart…
Anyways, we wanted a similar effect without the bleach/distressed part, an indigo ‘Eastman Kodak’ blue, if you will. So we simply opted to start with a lighter shade of indigo for the warp yarn.
Believe it or not, this proved much trickier and challenging for the Japanese mill than producing a dark indigo denim.

So, there it is. Light blue indigo.
Back in California, all we needed to do was brainstorming over a proper name for our new denim. Several meetings later, we settled for ‘Clear skies over Diamond Head as the daffodils dance to the chant of the Ko’olau winds over the sun-drenched lagoon indigo sea wash’ denim, although Cristian was ok with ‘the blue one’.

MBDFLIP EC003 Flipper Conors family

That’s for the color.
When it comes to construction, some might wonder why the legs of our “Malibu” jeans are not displaying the fabric selvedge… We went for flat-felled side seams instead, saving that little white line for the waist band. But don’t let the street fashion brigade give up on you just yet. Should an horrified fashionistozoid© give you lip after noticing your sans selvedge cuff, you still have the option of taking off your pants to show them what they’re missing. And flash the handsome pocket bags while you’re at it, that’s vintage NOS fabric Jack!
If nothing works, stripping while in line for my cappuccino has shown to be a great way to meet new people, amuse friends, and scare children.

We realize there are a large number of naked people in this post, and apologize for the inconvenience. Here are two more.

Hi-LadiesWEB Malibus-Sand-Pam

The “Malibu’s” are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Fabrics milled in Japan.

SPECS:

PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern. Slim ‘stove pipe’ early 60’s silhouette.

FABRIC:
a) Malibu’s Blues: 13 Oz. indigo-dyed denim twill, solid white selvedge. Milled in Japan.
b) Malibu’s Sand: 12.8 Oz. natural warp x White weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, solid white selvedge. Milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Tab waist band, concealed closure snaps.
* No belt loops.
* Side snap cinch tabs (adjusting waist by about 1½” when fully cinched)
* Flat-felled seam construction.
* New Old Stock pocket bags: 1960’s vintage 100% cotton stripe twill.
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”.
* Discreet “M” stitched rear pockets.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
Most denim will shrink and stretch after the early rinse/dry/wear cycles. This settles overtime.

Both natural and blue denim options of the “Malibu’s” come raw/un-rinsed. They will initially shrink to approximate tagged size after an original cold soak and line dry. Please note that further shrinkage can be achieved by machine drying the jeans (turned inside out to avoid marbling), but our chart measurements reflect only line drying.
I am usually a tagged Waist 32 in mfsc jeans, and went with a tagged Waist 31 with the Malibu’s (with no heat dryer.)
The Malibu’s fit pretty slim, our slimmest silhouette so far. The side tabs allow 1½ extra cinch in the waist, when both snapped to the tightest position.

I am personally partial to the ‘flood’ look, as opposed to modern stacking effect, and also think these look better not cuffed. Because leg creases tend to pull the fabric up with wear, it is a good idea to test wear the Malibu’s hem folded inside for a while, and adjust the length to your liking before getting them cut and hemmed. Please note that the original bottom hem of the Malibu’s is made by a single stitch machine.

Please refer to chart below for measurements.

Malibu Blues

CARE:
Launder when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails.
Machine wash. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. We recommend turning blue denim garments inside out to avoid marbling when washing.

Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Tagged Sizes
W28 × L33
W29 L33
W30 × L33
W31 × L33
W32 × L33
W33 L33
W34 × L33
W36 × L33
W38 × L33
Retail $289.95

 

Introducing “SAIGON COWBOY”, Mister Freedom® mfsc Spring 2015.

(Photo credit Tim Page ©1969)

(Photo Tim Page ©1983, Bob Hope Show, Long Binh amphitheater, 1966)

 

 

 

 

Mister Freedom Spring 2015 Saigon Cowboy CENSORED

Considered offensive material removed 01/08/2015

 

 

Mister Freedom Spring 2015 Saigon Cowboy

Mister Freedom Spring 2015 Saigon Cowboy

 

 

Mister Freedom Spring 2015 Saigon Cowboy CENSORED

Considered offensive material removed 01/08/2015

 

 

 

Mister Freedom Spring 2015 Saigon Cowboy

 

“SAIGON COWBOY”
Spring  2015 mfsc Collection

 

You are now familiar with how I use History as a backdrop for all our capsule collections. Trends and fads are of no interest to me.
I can only rationalize my participation to the fashion circus by the satisfaction of, once in a while, bringing awareness about important issues related or not to the garment industry. You know my broken record. Consumerism, impact of garment distressing, cost of goods, irresponsible manufacturing, payola in the product review blogosphere and the like.

I often thrive to ‘keep it light’, leaving others more qualified and better diplomatically-equipped to take on the real task of changing things in the field. There are tons of worthy causes out there, the internet has brought them to us who feel like doing something useful. I am content with planting snippets of information, like seeds, for one to research and form his own judgment. This helps me cope with the fact that, against all odds but not against my will, I ended up involved with a not-so regarding industry as a way of making a living.

Last year, following World News, I felt the need to finally highlight the absurdity of war via a collection. I believe much of Mister Freedom® clothes have already shown all the respect I have towards the Men and Women of the Armed Forces, somewhat of a family heritage for me. This respect remains unchanged. But like most normal adult people I know, I also find the term cannon fodder physically sickening, and basically hate war.
So, I wanted to talk about it in the open, make it official. World War II was too remote, black & white footage, had some ‘glamour’ attached to it, as the good guys ultimately won. The Guerre d’Indochine (1946-54) and its immediate legacy, the Vietnam War (1965-75), felt still vivid. This conflict showed Imperialism gone wrong, live on TV daily. Pax Americana in the Cold War.
‘Nam.
How do you get from a few hundred unofficial advisors training Montagnards, to an endless war of attrition? How and why? Who made the decisions, and did they all have to go above American voters heads?
Ten years (officially) of an exploding mixture of black ops, vicious combat, good intentions, political maneuvers, alliances, misinformation, lies, heroism, atrocities, corruption, war profiteering… resulting in well over 3 million casualties globally. And more PTSD than medical knowledge could handle. The intense trauma is still present today, ghosts are still haunting the living in Vietnam, the price a soul pays for its violent death, until it is nurtured to rest. The consequences are permanent.

Well, the topic hardly sounded like a good idea for a conversation at the dinner table, whether in Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, America or France. All the signs flashed: “Mined Quagmire, Keep Off!”. The perfect ‘goat rope’. Better stay PC, focus instead on all the worldly dilemmas concerning my trade such as plaid versus stripe, length of facial hair, denim fades, skinny or straight cuts…
I thought about backtracking, focusing on what sells easy, what generates the most “That jacket though” type comments.
But. I find it difficult to make a point drawing rainbows and unicorns. All proportions aside, the guys at Charlie Hebdo might not have disagreed with that.

So, ‘Nam it was. An understandingly taboo waste of human life, that got swept under the rug for good measure. 1975, the fall of Saigon. A few movies and 28 years of head-in-the-sand later and the US invades Iraq… Everyone has their opinion on all that, and I’ll let the US Department of Defense handle yours, but I believe one could learn a lot from the Vietnam War by looking it up and discussing it, peacefully. Might prove more constructive than scoring high on Grand Theft Auto.

Came time for me to dig. For an actual historical background, there were the 7000 page-long “Pentagon Papers“, declassified since 2011. In order to not completely lose my mind in the R&D process, I passed. I limited my research to countless radio show podcasts, period photos, recorded interviews, books such as Neil Sheehan “A Bright Shining Lie” (1988), Tim O’Brien’s “The Things They Carry” (1990), Michael Herr “Dispatches” (1977) to name a few. Several film documentaries also helped me get a perspective, and provided plenty material for insomnia and bad dreams. Some were just pure chronological footage, some took different angles. “Sir No Sir” (2005), “FTA” (1972), “In The Year of the Pig” (1968), “La Section Anderson” (1966), “Vietnam’s Unseen War – Pictures from the Other Side” (2002)… I kind of avoided Hollywood on this one.

It quickly became clear, after a few pages of Tim Page or Larry Burrows photography books, that the Vietnam war was no John Wayne’s “Green Berets” depiction. For someone not into making military gear replicas, it felt complicated to interpret. The gruesome war reality didn’t call for a wearable civvy clothing collection, so I had to go somewhat more of the “M*A*S*H” route than “Apocalypse Now”. Opt for gallows humor and its risks, adding high doses of fiction and imagination.
The obscure title “Saigon Cowboy” refers to a colorful 1960’s military slang expression. According to several accounts, it described ‘in-country’ personnel (or freshly flown-in reporters from the eager international press) stationed away from the front line. Saigon was safer than “the bush”. The real danger was beyond the tree line, in the elephant grass. A “Saigon Cowboy” looked the part, sipped drinks at the Continental, jungle fatigues and all, pockets everywhere, but never saw combat. Military expressions like “Chairborne commando” or “Garitrooper” carry a similar, easier to visualize meaning.

This “Saigon Cowboy” capsule collection is not about fashion. The support are the clothes, they will come with a ‘manual’. The historical backdrop of the Vietnam war is used as the eye opening premise of an intellectual reflection about the absurdity of war. It is not controversial for the sake of it. It is not shocking for the show. It is not an attempt at offending veterans, communities, or any nationals of Countries involved or affected by that conflict. It is not meant to revive bygone or dormant animosities.

It is out of the comfort zone for sure. Mine and many others’.
But if it plants just one seed out there that helps prevent more of the same in the future, then my risk was worth taking.

Peace.

Christophe Loiron,
Mister Freedom®

Something Change on the SUGAR CANE Okinawa fabric of MFSC Denim , 2 months Used !

2014下半年度Mister Freedom 推出的新款式 Californian Lot 64: Okinawa Issue 使用50%棉質混合50%甘蔗纖維製成的丹寧布料,繼承了由 SUGAR CANE 開發完成的Okinawa fabric 獨有特色

除了透氣、舒適、硬挺、、、以外,布料的色落速度也頗快,並且顏色極為獨特

這件 Californian Lot 64: Okinawa Issue  在自己經過兩個月左右(一週大約穿用3~4回),皺摺處與經常摩擦的細部已經明顯能看出色落的變化

 

Faith Hemming Jeans service by Union Special 43200 G machine

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2003年起至今已經超過十年,Faith 從公館到台北東區,一直以來都提供顧客們
使用 Union Special 43200 G 這款專用的鎖鏈車縫機器修改牛仔褲的褲腳長度服務
期間我們經歷了多次的測試、調校、配線、、、力求能夠將每一位顧客的牛仔褲褲腳修改到最佳的狀態

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Union Special 43200 G 是一款停產多年遭受淘汰的老機器,淘汰的原因應該在于其功能太過單一
調校不易、操作上會因為使用者的保養、調整、手勢、習慣、、、、、、等等多重因素的加疊
導致車縫之後的效果不一致,所以在非“必要”的狀況下此款機器遭到淘汰

但也因為其特殊的“難搞”特性,在搞定機器後能夠因為配線、車縫而產生明顯的皺摺效果
廣受到多數熱愛牛仔褲人士的擁戴

本篇的重點在于聲明修改後效果的範圍
由於我們的機器調整設定範圍適合於 12~17oz 的偏高密度丹寧布料,這個範圍的布料經過車縫後產生的效果會最明顯
並且在經過洗滌後因為機器車縫時的拉力與100%純棉車線水洗後的縮水效應,會有(類似、相近或相同)如上面照片中
產生的效果,而經過一段時間穿用後這些皺摺也就會因為摩擦而產生相應的磨痕及色落

少於12oz(或者帶有彈性)的布料我們不建議讓我們的機器修改,因為這樣的布料特性關係使用我們高拉力機器車縫後
皺摺效果會過度而產生縮口或者類似荷葉邊的狀況,在我個人的觀點認為會破壞褲子的美觀,因此提醒您過薄或者彈性布料的褲子請拿給“平車”機器修改,才不會破壞您的褲子

高於 17oz 的布料雖然我們可以車縫修改但是因為布料的厚度與硬度關係,車縫後的皺摺效果相應會差一些
因此在此提醒您

另外凡是店內有販售的牛仔褲品牌(不論您購自何處)我們都享有優惠價格(單件200元新台幣不包含寄送郵資)
其他品牌修改價格是 單件300元新台幣不包含寄送郵資

同一件褲子除非重新修改長度否則將來若有經磨耗斷裂或鎖鏈車縫線脫落,將不限次數免費修補重新車縫
(只要之前是我們改的褲子皆享有同等條件並且只適用於本店修改之牛仔褲)

目前我們已經另外採購另一款專用於車縫補洞、裂痕的機器,正在重組、設定中
希望不久的將來也能提供各位牛仔褲補動車縫的服務

由於目前所使用的 Union Special 43200 G 機器功能單一,因此我們無法提供修改牛仔褲褲長以外任何版型上的修改服務,懇請見諒

每一件褲子都由我自己親自修改,因此只要時間允許(我人在店內)都會盡可能讓顧客們能現場取貨

購自日本的純棉車線因為顏色不如台灣市面上化纖車線的種類繁多,因此某些特殊色我們無法提供

最後一項提醒

因為個人的衛生習慣問題,希望所有需要修改褲子的朋友們將您的褲子帶到店裡或者寄送到店裡之前能夠事先清洗過
實在遇過不少褲子一拿出來後異味強烈或者沾滿髒污、貓狗的毛、、、、等等狀況,真的很難接受
希望您尊重修改者,我們也會盡力將您的褲子修改到滿意的狀態

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