A Random Image Category Union Special 43200G | FAITH

小小三支工具~~~就上天堂了

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使用老機器在完成製作的成品車縫表現上確實能夠讓人滿意得無以復加
但使用的過程中的不夠順遂、無法負擔超量工作、經常需要微調、搶修、、、、、、種種因素
卻也是讓操作者“下地獄” 的痛不欲生

這陣子製作一批數量較大的產品,幾部機器都超量的負荷著
然後好不容易找到的三把原廠古董工具突然到貨了

接下來就像找到一個“直達天堂”的電梯按鈕一般

放鞭炮啦
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Make the roping up !!!

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既然使用鎖鏈車縫機器修改褲長,目的就是希望能讓褲腳經過修改後能夠有明顯的皺摺
不要呆呆的跟平車車縫一樣

所以為了不辜負Union Special 43200G的盛名
機器的調整、慎重並且針對不同褲子、不同布料的車縫時
調整自己操作的細節,就成了幾項最重要的工作

買到這檯機器不難、操作這檯機器也不難

難的是如何在不同布料的褲子車縫後都產生顯著的效果

繼續努力中

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About we do hemming Denim Jeans by Union Special 43200G machine

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2003年初次拿到第一台Union Special 43200G 這部專門用於修改丹寧褲長的鎖鏈車縫機器
當時台灣不曾有人使用、擁有、懂得維修、懂得操作這款機器,所以只能全靠自己摸索、嘗試、失敗、重新來過、、、、、
經歷至少一年時間才真正能夠順利地調整、校正、操作這部機器,也有幸因為這樣的過程讓自己必須全部自己來
所以每當機器遇到狀況、故障、需要校正、保養、維修、、、、也都能自己操作

然而這種老機器在當初設計製造時並不如現代機器一樣有許多方便依據的規格範圍、刻度、甚至是操作方式
因此隨著不同的單一機器,經由不同的人組裝、調整、校正、設定、、、、、然後不同的人操做使用、遇到不同的褲子、不同狀況等等都會有不同的結果
每一部機器都有自己的特性、臭脾氣

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很幸運的兩週前到了英國 IRON HEART INTERNATIONAL 總部,感謝 Giles & Paula 讓我有機會也試著操作、調整他們的機器 (Thank you Giles ! I learned a lot from you !!!)

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(Thank you Giles ! I learned a lot from you !!!)
由於 IRON HEART 公司使用的機器幾乎都只用於修改他們自家品牌的超厚磅數丹寧褲
因此設定上必須符合厚重不料的車縫、在調整設定上也必須有些許不同於自己的機器才能達到理想的效果

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使用原廠的針,對於這台機器雖然非必要但卻有不少加分效果,現代的針雖然更堅硬,卻不如古早的針有彈性

相信曾經拆裝、調教這部機器的人能夠理解我所說

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回到台灣後每天幾乎都要面對成堆待修改的褲子,機器實際上很傷、也經常會需要重新調教

正好這兩天修改了多件21oz~25oz的 IRON HEART Denim jeans ,機器機器再度出現小狀況需要校正

 

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因此花了一段時間重新設定、測試最終就是希望能夠把所有經手修改的褲子

都能做出良好的效果

 

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當然實際操作于車縫時手勢、力道、注重的各方面都會影響最後的結果

而車縫操作在修改長度或者單純換線不改長度、、、等等也會有不同效果

 

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某些布料較厚重的褲子剛剛修改好時無法看出明顯的效果,必須經過一段時間穿用、水洗後車縫線縮水、摩擦、、、、等等過程才會顯現出出明顯的卷曲皺摺效果

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最後幾張照片就是經過自己調教的機器修改褲子後,歷經一段時間穿用顯現的最終效果

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歲月痕跡

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長時間的使用,留下的是經歷、留下的是歲月
皮革製品、牛仔褲,都是身邊週遭最能夠反映使用痕跡的事物

每天穿用留下皺摺與磨痕,丹寧褲直接呈現刷紋和色落
每日穿戴馬皮皮帶也在歷經數十年蹂躪下留下皺摺與舊化質感

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Doublewood Raw Denim

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自己的第二條 Doublewood Raw Denim Jeans ,第一條因為穿起來很顯瘦、很有加長身高效果
所以家人拿去穿了。

這一件自己刻意拿了大號尺寸(原本自己W32可穿,但刻意選W34)目的是想讓長時間坐在電腦前工作的肚子稍稍解放一下
也讓還不習慣穿很窄版的自己多留一些空間

既然尺寸選大了,乾脆也就一改以往穿用褲子的習慣,測試一下不相同的養褲子方法

首先拿到褲子先下水清洗一次再穿,這原本就是自己的習慣
晾乾後,先依照自己希望的褲長,使用自己的 UNION SPECIAL 43200G chain stitch machine 修改褲長

接下來穿用才是真正與以往不同方式的開始,每穿一~兩次就直接丟洗衣機水洗。
直至目前為止這件褲子洗了 6 次(因為這段時間正在養另一件褲子所以沒有太經常穿這件),

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由於經常性、密集的水洗,布料的棉質纖維已經均勻的有線紗膨脹、車縫線縮水、、、、等等所有牛仔褲穿用長時間後會產生的現象都已經出現。而丹寧布料的染色也沒有想許多人傳言的會整體褪色誇張,反而是達到一個很美的色澤,整體褲子穿用時的感受也是相當舒適的狀態。

以如此低價買到製作這麼細膩的丹寧褲確實是很值得的經驗

期待過一段更長時間穿用後的效果

 

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IRON HEART Denim Jeans 666S , 6 Months used

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去年購入的 IRON HEART 666S ,自2014 年12月份開始陸續穿用
至今大約穿用半年(中間有2~3個月完全沒有穿)自己穿用尺寸是 W32 X L 36
褲長在穿用前就已經自己使用 UNION SPECIAL 43200G Chain stitch machine 修改至自己需要的長度

經過六個月陸續穿用後(中間使用 S.F.K Denim/Leather Soap 清洗了超過十次),褲子已經看得出初步的色落痕跡
短短半年左右經歷超過十次下水洗滌可以輕易看出
IRON HEART 666S 布料上使用的染料色勞度是非常強的,使用 S.F.K Denim/Leather Soap 清洗了超過十次並沒有出現誇張的整體褪白現象,仍然可以看出布料底色與摩擦痕跡產生的色落之間的落差

18oz 的重磅布料在自己操作 UNION SPECIAL 43200G Chain stitch machine 修改褲長後仍然看得出褲腳車縫處的明顯的皺摺痕跡

另外讓人意外的是經過多次穿用、洗滌後,以18oz的高磅數不料,竟然在36度C以上的台北市濕熱高溫狀態穿出門,完全沒有太悶熱的狀況、舒適性也相當高,顛覆了自己對於超高磅數牛仔褲的刻板印象

合身的版型加上精緻的車縫做工,這一件堪稱是今年自己最滿意的 Denim Jeans

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Faith Co. on Instagram

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Instagram ” 是很簡單的一個平台,一張照片就是一個故事、一個意識、一個念想
不需要過多的文字表態,僅僅溝通感官的交流

Faith Co. on Instagram

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從車縫製工的角度來挑選牛仔褲

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通常挑選牛仔褲總會被品牌、外形設計、Logo、、、、等等外在因素所吸引而決定購買的款式
若試著從牛仔褲的內在來挑選,選到一件本質優良、做工精細、耐穿、耐用的好褲子的機率就會高出許多

撇開對於品牌的主觀意識、布料磅數、、等等迷思

翻開褲子的裡側,從最明顯的各個布料裁切片的接合處車縫可以看出做工的好壞
車縫是否細密、工整、是否有漏針、是否有包縫處不平整、漏車、、、、
比較過多次後很輕易就能辨別出車縫的優劣

照片中是IRON HEART 666S 採用18oz厚重磅數丹寧布
車縫工整、細緻、強悍
是一條很好作為標準值的好褲子

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After 3 months used IRON HEART IH-666S Indigo 18oz Raw Selvedge Denim

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2014年12月到首批貨的 IRON HEART IH-666S 自己在當月月中左右購買了一條來穿用
至今日已經陸續穿用三個月、洗滌次數:四次

因為版型較合身,所以關節部位皺摺產生數量也較多且明顯

經過三個月的穿用已經可以初步看出布料色落的變化
比對全新狀態時會更有明顯差異

P.S 褲腳長度也在初次穿用時使用Union Special 43200G 機器修改褲長
褲腳皺摺也因此較明顯

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IRON HEART IH-666S Indigo 18oz Raw Selvedge Denim Slim Cut Jean

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是該認真的好好介紹這款近期引進的新產品了

IRON HEART 666S Indigo 18oz Raw Selvedge Denim Slim Cut Jean  (The Devil’s Fit) 官方敘述資訊如下

  • 18oz
    The definition of raw has been diluted over the years, and is now often used to describe any denim that is dark blue. So it is possible that a denim which has been sanforized, but not washed is referred to as raw, it is even possible that a denim that has been washed, but is still dark blue be referred to as raw.

    Whenever Iron Heart refers to raw, we refer to a denim that has undergone zero post loom processing. As such, any Iron Heart garment made out of raw denim or chambray will shrink when soaked or washed.” title=”” style=”cursor: help; border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(33, 33, 37);”>Raw slubby japanese indigo
    Selvedge is the term for the self-finished edges of fabric. The selvedge keep the fabric from unravelling or fraying and is a result of how the fabric is created. In woven fabric, selvedges are the edges that run parallel to the warp (the longitudinal threads that run the entire length of the fabric), and are created by the weft thread looping back at the end of each row.” title=”” style=”cursor: help; border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(33, 33, 37);”>selvedge denim

  • Lined rear pockets
  • Button fly
  • Reinforcing tape on inside of front pocket openings
  • Belt loops sewn into waist band
  • Selvedge is the term for the self-finished edges of fabric. The selvedge keep the fabric from unravelling or fraying and is a result of how the fabric is created. In woven fabric, selvedges are the edges that run parallel to the warp (the longitudinal threads that run the entire length of the fabric), and are created by the weft thread looping back at the end of each row.” title=”” style=”cursor: help; border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(33, 33, 37);”>Selvedge side seams and fly construction
  • Over gauge constructional stitching – 100% cotton thread
  • NOTE: will
    The stretch that occurs can be eliminated when the friction within the fabric is reduced. This will happen during soaking and/or washing, where both water and soap act as lubricants. The lubricants, along with the mechanical action of the washer, help the fibres relax and contract (shrink) back to their original length.

    One of the reasons that dry cleaning does not shrink natural fabrics is that the friction within the fabric is not reduced by dampening. ” title=”” style=”cursor: help; border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(33, 33, 37);”>shrink approx 1″ in the waist and approx 2″ in the inseam. BUT with wear will stretch back out to pre soak size in the waist

  • When selecting your size, please check actual measurements you need (measure an existing pair like this, do not simply go by tag size) and compare with detailed measurements for this model by clicking the “Sizing” tab above

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自2014年11月份開始穿用後,這件 IRON HEART IH-666S 顛覆了自己以往對於超重磅數丹寧褲的印象

因為特殊的製作紡紗、織造技術,所以即使下水、穿用過後中長纖維製成的 IRON HEART 18oz布料並沒有變得像許多標榜超厚磅數的品牌使用布料一樣變得超軟、鬆散,而是維持了一貫的紮實與硬挺的質感

IRON HEART 18oz布料接觸皮膚時也因棉質的選用非常舒適且透氣,並沒有想像中的悶熱感

最重要的是細看 IRON HEART IH-666S的細節、製作、車縫,實在讓人驚訝,搭配超高磅數丹寧布使用了同樣升級的車縫設定,不論機器調整、車縫針距、車線選用都相應的升級並且比許多其他品牌的產品更精細也更工整,完全體現了強悍的設定

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細看各處了車縫,完全沒有可挑剔的點,布料織造時布邊收尾的方式也明顯看出 IRON HEART IH-666S 對於布料使用上要求的嚴苛,用心的品牌果然不簡單

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